A used car is an unknown car. Even with receipts it’s hard to know for sure whether required maintenance was done – and done correctly.
That second part being the intangible part.
A receipt indicating that the axle lube was changed – or the brake fluid flushed – is kind of like a Federal Reserve Note.
Its value is based on faith.
The work was probably done. But how well was it done? And was it done with the right parts? Including the right fluids? This latter is very important with late-model cars, which often require very specific fluids (e.g., synthetic oil or oil of a particular viscosity) not just for optimal performance but for the warranty coverage to remain in force. If there’s a failure down the road and you can’t prove that the required fluid was in fact used, you may find the warranty coverage doesn’t apply – leaving you holding the bag.
And failure is no fun, regardless.
Which is why my rule is to assume the worst – and service the just-bought used car on that assumption, as soon as possible after getting it home. I want to know what’s in the crankcase – the brand of oil, the weight and how much (dipsticks sometimes lie and quick-lube places are infamous for putting in more oil than the engine is supposed to take, or not enough – and either is bad).
Auto Repair For Dummies
Best Price: $3.22
Buy New $18.99
(as of 08:15 UTC - Details)
I also want to know what brand of filter is hanging off the engine. A brand-new but low-quality filter is often worse than a high-quality one that’s been screwed onto the engine since three years ago.
Same goes for air filters. There may be a new-looking one in the air box. But is it a high-quality one – or the least expensive one the seller could find at Wal-Mart? Is it even the right filter? It’s not uncommon for someone to put the wrong one in. It’s close, but not quite – and so the seal’s not tight and unfiltered air (and dust and other friction-inducing things you don’t want in your engine) gets sucked in to your engine.
Confirming the condition of belts and hoses is also a good idea – and it’s much better to change them out in your garage, with all your tools on hand – and on your schedule – than by the side of the road, in the rain with whatever tools you can find.
I also want to know that the brake lines of the car I just bought are filled with fresh, uncontaminated fluid – not just that the master cylinder and the fluid in the reservoir looks clean. You can plainly see the master cylinder/reservoir – which is why the smart (but shady) used car seller will make sure it’s wiped clean and topped off with fresh fluid. But the fluid in the lines, you can’t see unless you open up the lines – and that’s hard to do on a used car dealer’s lot.
Which is why it’s one of the first things to do when you get that car home.
