Eating Earth: Exploring the Mysterious World of Geophagy
by
Mark Sisson
Mark’s Daily Apple
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A few weeks
ago I got into an unusual conversation with a guy in a coffee shop.
We were both passing through town – he for personal travel and me
for business. We struck up a conversation waiting in line and ended
up chatting for the remainder of our respective stops there. We
talked about what we did, where we were headed, etc. When I mentioned
the blog and the PB philosophy behind it, his face lit up. He loved
the idea and had embraced similar principles several years prior.
His latest experiment, the health effects of which he raved about,
was adding dirt to his diet. I listened with interest and asked
questions.
You all know
I'm big on dirt, and more specifically, on probiotic
supplementation. And while I've touched on the health
benefits of dirt, the immune
building properties of dirt consumption in children, and the
connection
between dirt and clinical depression in youngsters, I've never
met anyone who made a personal habit of dirt ingestion. I'd heard
of the practice in traditional societies, but it had always been
one of those concepts I'd thought about in passing and tabled for
another time. The idea has been on my mind ever since that exchange.
On the one
hand, how more fundamental can it get than ingesting earth – the
very source of sustenance (in one way or another)? There's minerals,
probiotics,
and all manner of goodies to be had. On the other hand – lest we
forget the more savage side of ecology – there are the less hospitable
microbes, the more insidious creepy crawlies – (roundworm, anyone?).
Though my conversation partner that day explained with pride and
assurance that he obtained his dietary dirt from only the most trusted,
meticulous, and local purveyor, I wondered if I could get past the
Fear Factor element. He seemed so taken by its effects – the weight
loss, the improved digestion, the higher energy. With some
careful caveats, could it be worth eating dirt?
In truth, humans
have been eating earth for as long as we've been around – and not
just because Grok
didn't have a salad spinner. Geophagy
has been observed throughout the world – everywhere from sub-Saharan
Africa to Europe, Asia to Australia. In the U.S., geophagy has figured
into the culture of various indigenous cultures and to the past
(and present) of the South, where experts believe native Africans
who were brought as slaves introduced the practice.
It's not just
one of collective humanity's hobby horses either. Scientists have
studied geophagy in a host of other mammals as well, including elephants,
wolves, and primates. Surely, this common a practice must have some
kind of adaptive element?
A recent article
from Lapham's Quarterly traced the unusual, circuitous, and sometimes
unsettling practice of geophagy in human history. (Those of you
who count among your passions both history and food will appreciate
the publication's summer
issue.) From a scientific angle, our understanding of geophagy
has involved its crucial distinction from pica,
the consumption of all varieties of non-edibles like coins, hair,
soap, etc. Our view has also been colored by the interplay of cultures,
the character of terrain and its vegetation, and the division between
scientific and traditional approaches to health.
The article
traces at length the career of Alexander Humboldt, an 18th and 19th
century explorer, who first noted geophagy in the native population
of a South American mission he visited. The indigenous Otomacs,
Humboldt noted, ate a “‘prodigious quantity'” of “‘soft, unctuous
clay” (which they called poya) that they obtained from particular
areas of a nearby river bank. In fact, they not only ate
it but meticulously collected it for routine seasonal storage. Humboldt
was both floored and disgusted. Nonetheless, he was apparently hooked
from then on. In the proceeding decades, he continued to study geophagy
as it was observed around the world. His research “normalized” geophagy
to the extent that people learned to associate it less with abnormal
psychology and more with long-standing tradition across the globe,
even in regions as “civilized” as Sweden and Finland.
Fast forward
a couple centuries, and we're still digging for the physiological
roots of geophagy – the why. The who is pretty clear. Experts have
noted that children and pregnant/child-bearing aged women
are the most likely to practice geophagy, but it's not
limited to these demographics. As for the what, geophagy
related earth is generally clay rather than soil. Where?
How? Those who practice geophagy as their ancestors did in the same
regions are as particular as the Otomacs were in harvesting said
clay. Tribal/community wisdom passed down through the generations
directs them to very specific sites. Usually, the clay is gathered
by digging down a number of several inches – where microbial presence
is substantially diminished compared to surface soil. Sometimes
it is eaten as is. Other times it is mixed with water and used as
a dip for food.
But why? Theories
have abounded in scientific corners. Many experts traced
the phenomenon to mineral supplementation. In other words,
animals and humans ate earth to benefit from the nutrition of it
– particularly minerals like calcium and iron. Numerous studies
exist attempting to correlate anemia and earth eating. Some show
that those
who eat earth tend to be more iron deficient, but the earth
routinely eaten by some of these groups is actually
high in iron. More questions arise from there. Is something
in the earth they eat interfering with iron absorption? Were they
already deficient before they started eating earth? Which came first:
the chicken or the egg? Moreover, when anemic, geophagy-practicing
children in one study were given iron supplementation, they
still ate the clay. Is it culture then? Habit? Is it
something else biological – or all of the above?
Read
the rest of the article
July 25, 2011
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