Survival Shotgun
by Mr. Smashy
6 Reasons You Need One A shotgun is a valuable tool that should be in every survival toolkit. In today’s environment the shotgun can be a bit of a question mark; it’s more powerful than a pistol but has less range than a rifle, and limited magazine capacity. It’s not always clear when or how to deploy the shotgun. Here are 6 good reasons every survivalist needs one. 1. Power and Performance A shotgun is a large step up in force from a handgun. Since their inception they’ve been know as a solid performer. They have been the backup long arm for law enforcement for at least a hundred years. Shotguns have been used to such great effect in the closed-in trenches of World War I that Germany protested their use and threatened execution for any troops found in possession of them. 2. Versatility of Ammunition Shotguns can fire rounds that other small arms usually can not. An example is bird shot, which can get small game for food, or less lethal rounds like beanbags that are meant to stop violent encounters without causing serious harm. There are less lethal weapon systems, but they are expensive and can only deploy less lethal rounds. Only the shotgun is capable of firing both rounds (and more.) 3. Price and Availability Shotguns have a high availability, and are cheaper than most rifles. With a few hundred dollars you can walk into a local superstore and purchase a shotgun in most of America. This means you can afford to upgrade your preparedness right now. You should still save up for that semi-auto rifle, but you can bump up your firepower now. Shotguns are also cheap enough that you can hand one out to upgrade a member of your team’s loadout if they do not have a long arm.
4. Legislative Protection The shotgun is looked at as a sporting arm by legislators and usually the last type of weapon to be banned or legislated against. This is not always the case, but even in cities like Chicago it is legal to own a shotgun where handguns and large capacity magazines are completely banned. This may be extremely helpful for the urban survivalist. 5. Ease of Maintenance Most shotguns are very easy to maintain. You can clean and maintain a pump shotgun cheap and easy with both commercial and improvised supplies. A cleaning kit can take up no more than the space of a coffee mug if you wish. You can pack a spare cleaning kit in your Bug Out Bag and not worry about it going bad or ruining the contents of your pack. Improvised supplies are all dual use items, making maintenance even easier. 6. Modular Shotguns are modular. You can take a basic “home defense” model and swap the short barrel with a long game barrel and hunt rabbit or duck. You can change the furniture from wood to synthetic to reduce weight and increase strength. You can swap the stock for a pistol grip if you want a backpack gun. The options are endless, but you have to make wise choices; one bad part could compromise the reliability of your shotgun. I am not suggesting the shotgun be the only weapon in your survival toolkit, but it is a powerful tool that can be adapted for many situations. There are some big limitations that you will be made aware of, but it should be obvious that force, cost, diversity, and adaptability are the main strengths of the shotgun.
Choosing Gauge and Type If you are new to shotguns understanding what type of gun to buy and which gauge to choose for your survival needs can be difficult. Continuing the Survival Shotgun series, here is a basic rundown of the types and sizes of shotguns you should consider for your survival gear. The basic operation of a shotgun is to fire a dose of round lead balls (shot) down a smooth bore barrel. Shotguns existed before rifles and pistols, and the concept of blasting shot down a smooth barrel may extend all the way back to ancient China. Modern Man’s innovation has managed to stuff all sorts of things into a shotgun shell, but the basic operation still remains. Understanding Gauge Shotgun barrels are typically chambered in gauges, not calibers. A gauge is the number of lead balls it takes to roll down the barrel to make a pound. If you’re wondering why that sounds crazy, it’s an imperial measurement created by the English, and they tend to over-complicate things. But it does explain why a 12 gauge has a larger tube than a 20 gauge. The most common chamberings for shotguns are 10, 12, 16, and 20 gauge. There is also .410 bore, which is a newer size based on the .45 Colt. It’s an American invention and is not a true gauge. Choosing a Gauge Why is this important? You need to pick a gauge (or bore) that is suitable for your stature or needs. Recoil is usually the determining factor, but for the prepper you want to also consider availability. Up to 50% of shotguns sold in America are 12 gauge. You will simply have an easier time finding ammunition for a 12 gauge. If you cannot handle the recoil of a 12 gauge, then go with 20 if possible. If you cannot deal with the recoil of a 20 gauge then .410 bore is your last resort. Other gauges like 10 and 16 are available but too rare for a prepper to consider seriously; you are not going to find 16 gauge ammo on the shelf at a superstore.
For the sake of brevity and to show how versatile the shotgun is, I will stick to 12 gauge for the majority of this series. Birdshot, slugs, and buckshot ammunition are available in 20 gauge. Birdshot and buckshot are available in .410, but you are getting three pellets of 000 buck per shell for the buckshot, versus a 12 gauge 000 load which holds 10 pellets or more. There are also slugs available for .410, usually weighing 1/4 an ounce versus a standard 1 ounce slug in 12 gauge. .410 slug ammunition is also extremely hard to find unless it’s deer season in a shotgun hunting state. Type of Shotgun For most preppers, the standard survival shotgun is going to be a 12 gauge pump shotgun; readily available at your local superstore. Semi-auto shotguns are great, and usually a joy to shoot, but there are issues that should be considered. Semi-autos cost more, usually starting at double the cost of a pump and up. Some of the cheaper models have reliability and quality issues. Parts can and do get worn out more frequently. Some autoloaders will only feed reliably with certain kinds of ammunition, like full power loads. Barring oddball rounds like the Aquila mini-shells, a pump action gun will cycle any load you feed it because of the manual loading process, including reduced recoil loads, light birdshot, and less lethal ammo with no projectile. Autoloaders rely on either recoil or gas to operate the action. Each has its advantages, but both systems require more preventative maintenance and cleaning for reliable performance. What a prepper is looking for in the survival toolkit is something cheap, reliable, and versatile. And that is the 12 gauge pump action shotgun. Questions If you have questions, or need help choosing a gun, ask here and we will do our best to point you in the right direction.
Choosing the Gun When it comes to survival shotguns, your choices really come down to two brands: Remington or Mossberg. There are proponents of each shotgun, and both have their strengths and weaknesses. Performance of the basic models will be on par, but there are limitations that should be remembered. Both guns are extremely high quality pump action shotguns that are easily the most popular models in the world. Each company makes dozens of variations of the guns and either will serve you well. Reading about specific differences and your own preferences is the only way to choose. Remington 870 The Remington 870 Express 18" Barrel and Synthetic Stock Differences to Remember:
Mossberg 500 Differences to Remember:
Additional Models Remington makes an Express model (#25077) that comes equipped standard with a two round magazine extension and a short pump from the factory. The Remington 870 Express 18" Synthetic 7-Round. Mossberg makes several other versions of the 500 called the 500 Special Purpose and a heavier duty version of the 500 called the 590A1 that comes with a heavy walled barrel, parkerized finish, metal trigger group, which holds 6 rounds. These shotguns are more expensive and harder to find, although both companies have increased availability, but for the small price increase you will get more gun. Some other weaknesses can also be overcome by purchasing accessory parts, but the more you change, the more chances you have to cause a failure with the firearm, something you can’t afford. Overall For the most part an 18.5" barrel, 5+1 capacity model with synthetic furniture will do fine in the survival toolkit. If you are concerned about getting some game, an additional longer barrel with a choke can be purchased. Try not to be drawn to the new “tactical” models with folding or collapsible stocks, or unorthodox muzzle attachments. If your shotgun came equipped with a heatshield, remove it, it can shoot lose and bind the action. Keep your shotgun simple and slick (as in clean, fast, and smooth).
Choose for Your System Whatever shotgun you ultimately end up with, remember to keep it simple, rugged, and test it’s reliability. Train with it, make sure any changes you’ve made have not compromised the shotgun, and keep shooting it to find any weaknesses in you and your technique or the shotgun. Even when I shoot skeet recreationally, I will bring my survival shotgun and break a few clays with it; it’s just another way to keep rounds through the gun and maintain familiarity with my shotgun. Understanding Loads Shotguns easily have more possible different types of ammunition than any other gun. From buckshot and slugs, to non-lethal and everything in between, the survival shotgun is an incredibly versatile tool. Understanding the various loads and their uses is important for any prepared survivalist. Worth The Effort Let’s be realistic about what the shotgun is and is not. It’s no longer the king of the hill when it comes to Close Quarters Battle. Terms like “street sweeper” and “room broom” get thrown around but for the pros, the shotgun has been relegated to specialized tasks like ballistic barrier breaching and less lethal munition deployment. The carbine and short-barreled rifle have taken over the realm once dominated by the shotgun. The ergonomics of the AR-15/M16 and the magazine capacity, as well as the armor penetration and terminal ballistics make it a clear winner. Shotguns are not rifles. But let’s take a look at what kind of diversity is available to the shotgun that makes it worth the effort in the first place. Buckshot
From Law Enforcement reduced recoil to full power 3 1/2" magnum loads, buckshot is a proven performer in soft tissue. Most buckshot is effective out to at least 25 yards. Slugs Usually 1 oz. “Foster” style slugs with rifling, or “rifled slugs”. The rifling on the slug is meant to conform to the contour of the barrel and collapse if there is a choke on the barrel. It does not impart any spin on projectile. Slugs can be fired accurately, and with good effect on target, with a bead sight out to at least 50 yards, possibly 100 depending on load. Slugs are effective on all mammals, including bear, that inhabit North America. Slugs may be your best chance at defending yourself from aggressors using soft body armor. Birdshot Also known as “shot”, used for hunting and sport, smaller lead or steel balls from the size of a kosher salt rock to loads big enough for large waterfowl, rabbit, or coyotes. Breaching Slugs Compressed copper, steel, or zinc slugs that burst open locks and hinges with reduced risk of ricochet or over-penetration. Can be used on padlocks as well. Not for a novice user, proper technique is required. Less Lethal Ranges from cheap rubber buckshot that can be skipped off pavement into a target or a crowd, to beanbag and rubber baton rounds that can have the option of leaving a UV marking dye. There are also less lethal rounds that do not fire any projectile, like the ALS “Bore Thunder” which “produces a stun/diversion effect by using a flash with an extremely powerful concussion blast.” Less lethals require practice and can be expensive. But there are times when a less lethal round can cause a stop, enforce compliance, or provide cover for retreat when lethal force is not required or justified. Survival Applications In the survival toolkit, keeping a good supply of all these different kinds of ammunition is a good idea. Even value-packed sport loads can be useful in a survival situation for more than just game. If you have no use for a #8 shot sport load, it’s possible to melt down the lead shot inside, use a slug mold, and reload them into a poor man’s slug. Will it perform as well as a factory slug? Absolutely not. Will the homemade slug provide more stopping power than a dose of small shot? Absolutely. The process can upgrade your stopping power if all you can find is sport or game loads with birdshot, but you would really like a slug for self-defense. This processes is being used by people in countries where a shotgun and birdshot loads are the only available legal firearms to citizens.
In a survival situation, a shotgun and even mild assortment of loads can keep you protected and fed, and give you the opportunity to flee from a superior force. Myths Explained Thanks to television, movies, and popular Rambo talk there are lots of myths about the shotgun. If you are going to use yours effectively in a survival situation you need to separate fact from fiction. Here are some common misconceptions the smart prepper should be wary of. Rack It Myth: “The sound of a pump racking is enough to scare away an intruder.” Fact: If you are racking your pump investigating a suspicious noise, you’ve made a tactical error. You may have escalated a situation from a simple peeping tom or snooping thief into a full scale home invasion by engaging their fight or flight reflexes. You’ve also announced your location to anyone that may have been trying to find you. Learn to load your weapon silently or leave it with a round in the chamber, whichever you’re comfortable and can safely do. If you’re out in the wild, follow the safety rules you’re comfortable with (NRA Safety Rules, Col. Cooper’s Rules of Gun Safety), but be ready to bring your weapon to action quickly and quietly; your threat will usually not give you the luxury of a distinctive warning. Room Clearing Myth: “You just point the shotgun in the general direction of the bad guy, pull the trigger and it’s game over!” Fact: You need to aim shotguns just like rifles and pistols. Rounds like buckshot will spread one inch for every yard of flight, as a rule of thumb. If you’re defending yourself from an assailant at 5 yards, the group of shot will be roughly 5" wide, an easy shot to miss if you’re snap shooting. If the shot was well aimed in the thoracic cavity, the result would be completely different. Shooting your shotgun at targets set up at different distances and measuring the size of the spread is called “patterning” your shotgun, and it’s what you should do with your gun and with each load you shoot. You’ll have a better understanding of how your shotgun performs and the limitations of each load. If your buckshot pellets cannot hold an 18" group (average shoulder width of a man) at 30 yards, but will at 25, you know that your effective range is 25 yards. Try different loads in your shotgun for the best pattern. Also, remember, you are responsible for each pellet that you send downrange and each pellet should hit your intended target. Mix and Match Myth: “I like to load in a slug in first, followed by two rounds of 00 buck, then two rounds of bird shot. If those two rounds of bird shot don’t end the fight, the buckshot sure will, and I keep that slug for insurance.”
Fact 1: Mixing ammo in the same magazine is not recommended. You could pull the trigger and get an unexpected result. If you need a different round, train on how to switch loads. Fact 2: Birdshot should never be used for defensive purposes unless you have no choice. The small shot does not penetrate and will not cause a stop, especially if the aggressor is determined. There has been a documented report of a 12-year-old girl surviving a point-blank blast of bird shot. Dick Cheney shot a 78-year-old man in the face with birdshot and the receiver lived. Armchair Tactical Myth: Everything you’ve seen in TV and movies about people getting shot with shotguns. Fact: In close quarters buckshot and slugs do heavy damage, but people do not explode, fly backwards, and there is not always a huge window for them to fall through. Train for quick follow up shots, dealing with multiple aggressors, reloading your shotgun when it’s run dry, and a especially the Tactical Reload (loading your magazine between shots.) Breaching Myth: A single blast will open a door explosively. Fact: Ballistic breaching is usually a two- or three-step process involving shooting frangible breaching slugs at the latch and bolt of a locked door, and then the door is pried or battered open. If you’re lucky and have shot well, a good kick with a solid boot will open the door. If you shot poorly, you can actually twist a metal door and frame together so an explosive breach, battering ram, or Halligan tool is necessary. Breaching can be accomplished by a prepper with a shotgun and a partner with something like a Stanley FuBar, but don’t expect a dynamic entry on an unsuspecting party. You can use standard buckshot and slugs for a ballistic breech, but frangible breaching slugs are recommended for safety. Your Favorite Every armchair tactical operator and mill ninja has a ton of great “shotgun myths” Leave a comment and tell us your favorite. Cleaning and Maintenance Many shotguns, especially pump guns, can run well for long periods of time between cleanings. However, in a survival situation your life may depend on that gun and you need to know it’s in perfect working order every time.
Survival Maintenance When you fire a shotgun, you are not only leaving primer and powder residue, but also plastic residue from wads or lead from slugs. There are many products available to clean the bore of all these residues using nylon coated rods, brass brushes, and cotton patches. For the prepper, this is largely unnecessary. Boresnake For a survival pump you really don’t need much more than a Hoppe’s BoreSnake. The boresnake is a long cloth tube that has brush bristles and cloth wipe that you slide through the bore of your gun. That’s basically all you need to clean up a pump shotgun in one go and it’s around $20. The package is small, light and cheap enough to pack an extra in your Bug Out Bag. To be honest, sometimes I don’t even clean my pump gun until I notice slug accuracy falling off. Cleaning Kit It may be a good idea to invest in a larger cleaning kit with rods and brushes once you’re set up and comfortable with the BoreSnake. You will get better slug accuracy if you can clean the barrel thoroughly, but you must decide if the cost, extra weight, and effort are worth this. As a shooter who puts a large volume of buck and slugs through my shotgun, I have a dedicated shotgun rod with jags and brushes, but I typically use them for a 6-months–1-year deep cleaning that a BoreSnake can not perform. Autoloaders I have an autoloader that is gas operated and requires a full detail strip after each trip. It’s a solid design and well made, and I anticipate many years of service from it, as long as I keep up the preventative maintenance and watch a few parts for wear. If you have chosen to run an autoloader, expect to do the same. Recoil-operated guns do not require as much maintenance, but gas-operated guns may have o-rings and springs that need to be watched. Find out which parts are prone to breaking down and keep backups, so that you do not have to engineer or rig a solution later. Keep a backup to the backup part if possible, and keep a paper and electronic copy of the manual so you know how to install the part. Alternative Cleaners In a survival situation you can use some dual-use products to clean and maintain your shotgun. WD-40, ATF, or kerosene will clean fouling from the barrel. If you can mix the ATF and kerosene, it will work even better; there is a recipe for a home brew gun-cleaning solvent called “Ed’s Red” where ATF and kerosene are major components. To apply the solvent a tampon with some fishing line will do nicely as an improvised bore snake. If you cannot get your hands on a tampon, pieces of worn out t-shirt tied to a line will work as well. The key is to saturate the barrel, let the solvent stand, and then wipe out the fouling. Lubricants You will then need to lubricate the inside of the barrel, moving parts, and lightly coat the outside metal. Too much lubrication is bad, concentrate on where metal moves against metal. Standard motor oil in a heavy viscosity or 3-in-1 oil can be used to lubricate moving parts and prevent surface rust.
If you have dropped your shotgun in some dirt, with no resources and a non-functional weapon, you can do a quick field strip, brush off the dirt, and lubricate the key points with the dipstick of an automobile. The shotgun is rugged and simple enough that you can be back in action that easily. Accessories You Actually Need Although the shotgun does a great job on it’s own, there are some accessories that will greatly improve your capability. People like to load up their guns with a lot of accessories that add weight but not much functionality. Here are 4 accessories you actually need: Sling The best for a shotgun is a two-point sling. Three-point slings are too complicated and single-point slings are impractical for running, climbing, or moving through brush. You will most likely be using your shotgun either on quick security checks or long patrols; a simple two-point sling is best suited for both missions. A side-mounted sling is best, you can find side sling mounts by GG&G or Specter Gear. Stock Carrier or Sidesaddle You need a way of keeping an extra reload on the shotgun such as a sidesaddle or buttstock carrier (or both). One of the main weaknesses of the shotgun is firepower; magazine capacity is low and reloads should be carried on the gun so they are always available. Look for good Buttstock Carriers by Blackhawk, Eagle Industries, Specter Gear, and Uncle Mike’s. Good Side-saddles, receiver mounted ammo carriers, are made by:
Side-saddles are not recommended for Mossbergs with aluminum receivers because over time recoil can cause the pins to deform the action. This is also true to a certain extent for Remington guns, but it’s not as pronounced. Side-saddles made by Vang Comp and Mesa Tactical have mitigated these issues by using different approaches to the problem. I’d still recommended using Loctite on the screws and witness marks to be sure the screws aren’t backing out from recoil. Weapon Light Target identification saves lives, and a tactical bright light can actually deter the use of lethal force. The best are made by SureFire and are integrated into the pump: Remington Version and Mossberg Version. The newer models have unbreakable LED bulbs that stand up to recoil, run hours on a set of batteries, and batteries will stay stable in the light for 10 years. However, SureFire is a premium solution, so that may not be for you. Streamlight is another source of lights and mounts for shotguns. Mesa Tactical offers a Magazine and Barrel Clamp that can be used to mount a 1" light like a SureFire 6P directly to the barrel. GG&G are offering replacement fore ends with a rail for use as a light attachment. The key is to use a quality light and mount that will hold up to recoil and rough handling. Extra Shell Carrier Efficiency is key. Safariland sells a belt clip mounted shot shell holder that is concealable and holds a quick two rounds. There are a huge selection of modular pouches for use with shogun shells, which may be practical but not very versatile, unless you plan on having multiple rigs. A shotshell card, like the Jones Tactical SSH-01 can be used in conjunction with an existing rifle rig or Bug Out Bag. They are slim, have hook Velcro on the back, and can be zip-tied to things like pack straps for expedient ammo setup. You can even put loop Velcro on your shotgun and use them as a side-saddle.
Best Choices If I could only pick two accessories, I’d chose a weapon light and a quality buttstock ammo carrier. A sling is nice, especially for those long walks around the ranch, but target identification and having a reload on the gun is more important. What’s important for you is getting quality accessories and having them work together reliably for you as a team to help round out your weapon system. Mossberg M500SP Loadout To close out the epic Survival Shotgun series Scott was gracious enough to give us a full rundown of his personal survival shotgun, complete with lots of pictures, gear recommendations, load ideas, and training tips. Feel free to be jealous. Scott – (mr. smashy) Survival Shotgun My primary survival shotgun is a Mossberg 500, specifically the M500 Special Purpose. I chose Mossberg because it was cheaper and the safety is located on the tang (my wife is left-handed). The Remington safety is not as ambidextrous. Upgrades I swapped out the factory magazine spring and follower for a Wilson Combat hi-viz follower and extra power magazine spring. The pump was replaced with a SureFire weapon light that has been upgraded with the LED bulb. I have a two-point sling made by Jones Tactical, mounted to a Specter Gear Side Sling Mount Plate and a Specter Gear 6 Shell Buttstock Shotshell Holder. The buttstock has been swapped from the factory part to a Houge Overmolded 12" length of pull. Essentially this gives me the most compact shotgun possible while still maintaining ammunition options. I chose to go short because I expect the shotgun to be a CQB weapon. Ammo and Parts I understand that shotguns are not rifles; the maximum effective range of a shotgun, using slugs, is about 80–100 yards. I stock a reserve of Federal LE reduced recoil buckshot and slugs, some cheaper imported reduced recoil buckshot that is nickel plated to reduced shot deformation, cheap bulk pack #8 sport loads, breaching slugs, and less lethal rounds. I have a list of known wear parts, which have spares, and I perform preventative maintenance on the gun to check these parts whenever it’s used. I’m also set up to reload for 20 gauge, so I can make my own sport, hunting and, if need be, defensive loads. I hope to expand that capability to 12 gauge soon. Dummy Shells Another highly recommended accessory I use often is a set of dummy shells. These are necessary to practice loading and reloading the shotgun safely. Reloading should be something you can do quickly and proficiently from your on-gun location (sidesaddle or buttstock holder). There are a variety of dummy rounds available, but my favorite are “Action Proving Dummies” available from Brownells. They are basically a shell loaded with lead shot but without powder and a primer. The feel and weight is 100% correct, they are very durable, and the price is right. There are alternatives available but I have found these to be the best for my needs. Training You should also learn how to “select slug”, for times when buckshot is too short range or you need the extra accuracy or penetration of a slug. Another good drill is called the “Ball and Dummy” drill, where you load a dummy into your magazine tube substituting one round with the rest being normal loads. You can use this drill to observe recoil avoidance (bucking or flinching), and also use it to train for a failure to fire. Your Survival Shotgun So what can you take away from all this? Hopefully you can find a shotgun, ammunition, and accessories that fit your needs and budget, and build the skills to make an adaptable weapon system. As long as you train and understand the shotgun’s limitations and its strengths, it will find a solid place in your survival toolkit. To see a complete set of pictures you can check out mr. smashy’s Flickr Collection. Reprinted
with permission from Survival
Cache. September 7, 2010 Copyright © 2010 Survival Cache
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