California
Dreamin'
by
Bill Bonner
by
Bill Bonner
The pall of
insolvency hangs over Los Angeles like the smoke from a brush fire.
Fire is such a hazard in California that inspectors roam the hills
around the city looking for dead wood. Residents are fined if it
is found on their lots. But no such penalty awaits those whose financial
tinder poses a risk.
We have come
to California to look into the future. America may lead the world.
But the Golden State leads America. The state is a hothouse of invention
always
innovating
always evolving
at such a fast pace the rest
of the world gets dizzy trying to keep up.
Detroit may
have given the nation the cheap automobile
but L.A. knew what
to do with it. It built suburbs all up and down the coast
and
then connected them with a network of freeways. Gasoline was cheap.
Houses were cheap. And the roads were open.
California
is a land of dreamers. Bubbles, like tropical plants, grow big and
fast here
creating vast canopies of delusions and conceit.
Then, the hot sun beats down and the dried-out dreams fall to the
ground as kindling
waiting for a spark.
In the late
90s, the Silicon Valley was the source of a great reverie
that computer technology would transform the world. It has. But
not exactly as the hopers hoped. Their dotcom bubble went up in
smoke at the end of the decade.
Then, came
a group of new bubbles also largely based in California.
The feds panicked in the recession of 0102. Their
artificially low interest rates combined with the globalized
economy caused the final mutation that produced the Extreme
Bubble Culture circa, 20022007. Housing prices rose, giving
consumers the collateral they needed to dream big. Soon they were
borrowing money so they could buy German cars, fill their tanks
with Saudi oil, and drive to malls to buy Chinese gadgets.
Everyone speculated
on housing prices homeowners, lenders, investors, builders, and
Arnold Schwarzeneggers state government itself. But now that
housing prices have come down
the whole Bubble Culture may
be threatened with extinction. We drove into the heart of L.A. looking
for evidence. Our first challenge was to find the heart of the city.
The place stretches for many miles in many directions. It has a
head
a mayor and a city council, easy to locate in a stately
old building. It has long arms too reaching out to grab parking
offenders and collect property taxes. And its legs are in constant
motion; the city is always on the move.
What it seems
to lack is a heart. The downtown area is just a collection of office
buildings. In the morning, people drive in, park in garages, and
go directly to their offices. In the late afternoon, the legs turn
and move in the opposite direction. By nighttime, the place is as
dull and empty as a state senators head.
The brain is
missing too. When ordinary citizens dreamed of riches, so did the
state government. Now, the weightlifter faces bankruptcy for the
2nd time since hes been governor. When he was sworn in, the
state was threatened with default on $13 billion worth of loans
from the previous administration. This time the stakes are higher.
California
led the nation on the way up; its leading on the way down
too. When the value of the collateral broke down in 2007, Bubble
Culture turned brown. Homeowners went broke. Their lenders went
broke. And pretty soon, the whole world was beginning to go broke.
In the last two years, house prices in California have fallen 40%
50%
in some areas.
Driving through
the city, most of the older neighborhoods show few signs of trouble.
There are few For Sale signs up. Life goes on in the
same way it has since this culture began early in the 20th century.
Its in the open areas outside the city, where the dreams got
most sun, that the trouble begins. Just drive down Lincoln Street
from Santa Monica to the airport. When you come to Marina del Mar
you will soon notice huge housing developments on both sides of
the road. Now Leasing says one. Luxury Units for
Sale says the other. No lines were seen outside the sales
offices. Throughout Southern California there are thousands of these
new houses
mostly at the fringe of stretched-out suburbs and
outlying towns
many of them practically deserted. It was the
rare developer who imagined that prices would be cut in half.
Naturally,
when the bubble blew up
so did Californias state budget.
Suddenly, tax revenues collapsed
while expenses rose. This
was completely foreseeable to a person of normal intelligence; it
nevertheless seemed to come as a complete surprise to the legislature.
For months, the government has warned that it was running out of
money. In this too, California leads the nation. Not only are its
people going broke so is its government. When this year began,
the government faced a $42 billion deficit and was forced to pay
its employees in IOUs.
Unlike the
federal government, California cant print money. But between
issuing IOUs to employees and issuing dollar bills to foreign lenders
there is not a lot of difference. Whether they have the emblem of
the Great State of California or that of the United States of America,
both pieces of paper will come to be worth what people will give
you for them
and not a penny more.
Bubble Culture
now seems tawdry, out-of-fashion and broke. But Californians are
still dreaming. When the underbrush finally is burned away, perhaps
theyll dream up something new.
April
11, 2009
Bill
Bonner [send
him mail] is the author, with Addison Wiggin, of Financial
Reckoning Day: Surviving the Soft Depression of The 21st
Century and
Empire of Debt: The Rise Of An Epic Financial Crisis and
the co-author with Lila Rajiva of Mobs,
Messiahs and Markets (Wiley, 2007).
Copyright
© 2009 Bill Bonner
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