The
Plaza de Toros
by
Bill Bonner
by Bill Bonner
DIGG THIS
Bullfighting
is a sport, an art, an entertainment...with a long history. We know
nothing about its origins, but the lithe young bullfighters in the
Plaza de Toros last night reminded us of the girls in ancient friezes
of Crete. They seemed so light on their feet, so feminine in their
comportment, so delicate...they looked like crystal ornaments -
decked out in sequined brocades, shockingly bright silk, indiscreet
colors, and little ballet slippers.
If you can
believe the archeological evidence, the young females of Crete were
an intrepid lot. They took the bulls by the horns...in order to
leap over their backs. And last night too, the matadors leapt into
the air right in front of the charging bull's horns. As they stuck
the poor animal with their banderillas, we felt 30 centuries vanish
before our eyes. We looked around us. There, on the granite benches
of the Plaza de las Ventas de la Espiritu Santo, was a crowd that
might as well have been wearing togas and staring at bare-breasted
maidens...or giving thumbs down to a gladiator, just before he cut
off his opponent's head.
You may wonder,
dear reader, what this has to do with the world of money. We confess
that we have no idea. Nor do we draw any moral lessons or impose
any judgments on what we saw. We merely pass along the following
account as it happened and leave you to take what you will from
it.
The Plaza de
Toros is built like a Roman coliseum...or a football stadium. It
is constructed of granite, with benches of stone. Shrewd regulars
rent cushions as they enter. Others wish they had. One side is in
the shade. The other is in the sun. The people who rent cushions
also know that you want to be on the shady side, partly because
the sun is often very hot in Madrid...and partly because you can
see better when the sun in at your back rather than in your eyes.
Around the
top of the stadium are arcades done in a Moorish design, punctuated
by a single dignified booth, reserved, we assume, for the royal
family.
Down on the
granite benches, people sit very close together. Indeed, we felt
on quite intimate terms with the woman in front of us, so close
was she nestled between our knees. And the man behind us held his
chin so near our head, we had to be careful not to stand up...or
sit down...too fast.
People crowded
in after work, much as if they were going to a baseball game. But
this was not like the uncouth mob at Camden Yards in Baltimore.
These people were well dressed and middle-aged. No one wore shorts
or tee shirts. Instead, many had on suits. Others sported handsome
straw hats. There were no children - none. Nor was there any yelling
from the crowd. When pleased, the spectators clapped. When disappointed,
they sighed.
The ceremony
began with trumpets and with a ride around the ring by two caballeros
in bright red costumes. The rode at a measured pace and then disappeared
behind the wooden wall that separated the inner ring...the bullfighting
ring...from the service area.
Then, the trumpets
sounded again. As the night darkened, we began to dread the trumpets.
Each time they sounded, it meant that a bull moved closer to his
death. The wooden doors opened and out came a big, brown-backed
bull. The animal was pure hyperbole; a bull that would do justice
to Merrill Lynch, with such huge shoulders and, in comparison, such
tiny hindquarters that he could have been a cartoon from Disney.
He looked around. He pranced. Then he saw the large fuchsia-colored
capes that the matadors had hung round the edge of the ring to tempt
him, and he charged one...sending its owner ducking behind a wooden
doorway...and then another. Across the ring...this way...then that...snorting...pawing
the ground. Master of the ring...but confused.
We do not know
enough about bull fighting to critique the sport. But it began to
seem a little one-sided.
Then, the horns
sounded again. This time, two picadors, armed with long lances,
and mounted on horses protected by tough padding, came into the
ring, preceded by what appeared to be stagehands. The picadors,
too, were dressed elaborately in sparkling jackets and pants. In
contrast to the bright colors of the matadors, however, the picadors
and their horses wore vestments of a darkish yellow color. Anyone
who has ever changed a diaper knows the color.
After tricking
the bull this way and that, the matadors led him towards the picador,
who now called out to him, clanging his metal stirrups to draw his
attention. The big, brown-backed bull charged directly into the
horse, which couldn't see him coming because its eyes were covered.
The force of the charge practically knocked the horse and rider
over, but the picador used the impetus to plant his lance into the
bull's back. Still, the bull kept thrusting his horns deeper and
deeper into the horse...pushing him back against the side of the
ring...and then lifting him up half off the ground...while the picador,
still mounted, held his lance steady in the bull's back.
The matadors
rushed out, trying to distract the bull...trying to draw him away
from the horse. At first, the bull paid no attention. He was getting
even for that spear piercing his flesh. But then, suddenly he pulled
away and charged wildly at one of the matadors.
While the matadors
kept the bull distracted, the picador repositioned himself, took
up a fresh lance and prepared to bring in the bull for another charge.
And again, the scene was repeated...with the bull driving his horns
into the horse's protected flanks and then pushing upwards, while
the picador stabbed and thrust with his lance. And once again, the
matadors flung their capes in front of the bull's eyes and seduced
him back to his fruitless charges.
At last, as
the picador repositioned himself and directed his horse out of the
ring, the awful horns blew once more. Now the bull was ready for
a new torment. A matador strode to the center of the ring and laid
down his hat to clapping and cheering. Then, he took out gaily-colored
banderillas - thin, sharp spikes about 2 feet long. One in each
hand, he moved to the center of the ring.
Once he was
in place, the other matadors stood still and silent, while the one
with the spikes called to the bull...stood up on his toes...and
made a gesture with his red-and-white harpoons. Blood glistened
on the bull's back and dripped onto the ground. He stood motionless
for a minute, as if wondering what was happening to him. He turned
his head to the murmuring crowd all around him. And then he did
as he was bid; he charged the matador at full speed.
With no cape,
only the spikes, the matador moved quickly to the right, in a feint.
And then, with the animal almost on him, he darted to the left,
planting the spikes into the bull's shoulders, in almost exactly
the same place that the picador had left his wound.
The crowd clapped
and roared with approval.
The scene was
repeated, now with an improvement. The same matador took two new
spikes and minced like a tango dancer to the center of the ring.
But this time he stood with his back to the bull. The bull charged.
The matador waited until the horns had almost reached his back,
then he feinted again...turned around...and two more banderillas
found their mark. Now, the blood was pouring from the bull's back.
And while the
bull looked on, stock-still, bewildered, the matador arched his
back and posed...waving out at the cheering crowd, like a prima
donna.
Now, walking
over to the side of the ring, he picks up a smaller, redder cape
- the muleta. In its folds he hides a straight epee. Then, he turns
and tempts the bull again...and again the bull charges. But now,
the animal is tired. He lumbers closer to the matador, not strong
enough any more to charge helter-skelter across the ring. The matador
seems to have him completely under his control.
But then, all
of a sudden, the bull, still too tired to charge straight ahead,
brushes against the matador, turns tightly - and in a second, tosses
him to the side. Suddenly, the killer is on the ground and it is
the bull who is master of the field.
The other matadors
dash out. With their giant capes, they turn the bull's head from
the fallen matador. But the man is not finished. He gets up. His
hand has been gored and his costume is bloodied, yet it is the bull's
blood, not his own. He arches his back again as he moves once more
delicately towards the bull. He taunts him, almost.
"Why do you
treat me so roughly?" he seems to ask. He then turns to the crowd
and makes a sweeping gesture with his right hand, like Babe Ruth
pointing to the left-field bleachers. Only he, not the bull, will
be the master of the ring, it says. He, not the bull, will leave
standing on his feet.
The horns sound
again. The matador walks to the edge of the ring and takes a new
sword from one of the handlers, holding it in his right hand, with
the muleta in the left. He tempts the bull into one pass...then
another...and then, passing the cape behind his back, still another.
Ole! Ole! Ole!
The crowd is
pleased. The bull is weakening. The sky has turned as red as the
painted sky at the Venetian hotel in Las Vegas. On the sand of the
ring are stains of red, too, where the bull has shed his blood.
El
Toro no longer charges wildly, but slowly...and now the matador
raises his sword and points it at the top of the bull's bloody shoulders.
He shakes his cape...tempting the bull forward...and at the moment
the bull charges towards him, he rushes forward towards him, planting
his sword deep into the animal's heart, while sliding away from
the sharp horns.
Now,
the bull stands still. He seems to be wondering what has struck
him and what it means. The supporting matadors begin to move towards
him, fluttering their capes on both sides. The bull moves his head
towards one...then the other...one, then the other. But there is
no fight left in him. After a minute, he slumps to the ground. His
legs give way...then, he rolls on his side. One of the matadors
comes up to him with a long knife and plunges it just behind his
skull. The bull's legs give a last jerk. And then, it is over.
In a second,
the giant doors open. A team of gaily colored mules comes out...the
dead bull is hitched up...and then dragged off the field. The crowd
claps.
And then, once
more, the horns sound again.
May
19, 2007
Bill
Bonner [send
him mail] is the author, with Addison Wiggin, of Financial
Reckoning Day: Surviving the Soft Depression of The 21st
Century and
Empire of Debt: The Rise Of An Epic Financial Crisis.
Copyright
© 2007 Bill Bonner
Bill
Bonner Archives
|