Würzburg in Flames 1945
by
Sabine Barnhart
by Sabine Barnhart
On
March 16, 2005 Würzburg remembered the 60th anniversary
of being turned into an inferno by the strategic bombing of experienced
bomber Group Number 5, one of Royal Air Force’s most elite squadrons.
Group 5 was considered the most precise and had already bombed the
cities of Heilbronn, Darmstadt, Braunschweig, München und Kassel.
The
attack took place at approximately 9:30 PM that night, with 236
planes over Würzburg while another 280 were heading for Nürnberg.
According to the official statistics between 360,000 to 380,000
incendiary bombs were dropped in three waves, with 180 to 220 high-explosives
bombs weighing 500 kg each, and an unknown quantity of Petrol Gelée
cans thrown off the planes.
The
city was a burning inferno by midnight, ablaze with a heat index
of 1000 to 2000 degrees Celsius. The intensity of the heat and fire
destroyed what bombs couldn’t. People were forced out of their cellars,
flocking to the Main River as a place of refuge.
The
official death count was totaled at about 5000 people. Of that over
3700 were women and children. Approximately 82 percent of living
space was destroyed during the attack, 35 churches and almost all
public buildings and cultural memorials. The city was transformed
to rubble and ashes
Last
summer I spent a few days in Würzburg while visiting a friend
of mine, a fellow Texan. The city is situated on the Main River
and surrounded by vineyards along its shores. On my first day there,
we went downtown to visit the beautiful baroque garden of the Residence
Palace. It was a hot summer day with the populace going about their
business as usual. There were no signs of what happened 60 years
ago.
Just
as we made it to the garden entrance, a wedding party took pictures
right in front of the old crown-bishop’s residence. A brass band
was there, cheering on the newlyweds in their traditional Lederhosen
and feathered hats. It all seemed so German.
I
sat down on the Franconia-Fountain. Nestled right at the front of
this majestic baroque building, it features the statues of Mathias
Grünewald (Painter, ca. 14701528), Walther von der Vogelweide
(Poet, 11701230), and Tilman Riemenschneider (Painter and
Sculptor, 14601531). Three famous artists, whose names are
connected to Würzburg through birth, death or through the effect
of their work, surround the fountain in thoughtful poses. Their
legendary works of art are still part of the city’s culture.
We
walked through the cathedral and crossed the Alte Mainbrücke
(the old Main bridge) with the statues of the Franconian Apostles.
The Irish Bishop Kilian and his disciples Kolonat and Totnan evangelized
the area after Rome fell. They died a martyr’s death in 689 AD;
yet their work carried on in bringing Christianity to the Franken.
We
decided to stop at a small café and sit outside under a big
and shady umbrella. The city is still very pretty, but nothing like
its previous splendor. It’s quite apparent which buildings were
erected after the war. Since only six homes remained intact after
the bombing, there was really nothing for the residents of Würzburg
to go home to after the attack. They had to build anew.
People
walked up and down the cobblestone streets that are only reserved
for pedestrians and bike riders. Shops and bakeries were busy with
their customers. Two old ladies idly chatted with each other as
they passed our table. Tourists were heading for the cathedral for
a picture and a tour. The scars from the past didn’t seem to exist
as life continued in the streets of Würzburg.
At
one time the city was a landmark of the Renaissance and Baroque
period. The buildings constructed after the war look like square
boxes made out of concrete a standard post-war look seen in most
cities that were bombed. Built in haste to accommodate new living
space for the survivors, not much thought had been put into these
structures. Most churches and historic buildings have been reconstructed
and restored to their former beauty. But what about all those people
who survived the war? It takes more than stone and paint to reconstruct
their wounds.
On
our way home we stopped at the war memorial museum. It’s a small
room which explains some of the events that took place on March
16th. The heat and confines of the room, combined with
all of the images and facts displayed on its walls and the small
replica of the devastated city, were almost overwhelming.
Würzburg
had seen a lot in its 1300 years of existence. There were revolts
and peasant wars, witch burnings and squabbles between one prince
and another. But I don’t think it had ever seen anything like what
happened in 1945.
The
loss of lives in WWII was gruesome. Over 60 million people died;
6 million Jews murdered in concentration camps, another 20 million
deaths in Russia, over 4.5 million Poles, a million French, and
unnumbered people of other nationalities lost their lives in Europe’s
battle to conquer and to eliminate their enemy. Yet there are still
disagreements over the exact number of deaths. Does another 5000
or 10,000 make a difference any more?
The
citizens of Würzburg thought the worst was behind them. Dresden
and Schweinfurt, with their machine factories, were already bombed.
Rumors surfaced that the residents of Würzburg would be spared
because it was said that Winston Churchill had studied in their
city. None of these wishful thoughts prevented the attack. Air Marshall
Sir Arthur Travers Harris believed, as did Winston Churchill, that
German cities with a population of over 100,000 needed to be bombed
in order to break the stamina of the German populace.
So
the night sky rained fire and death on the city of Würzburg.
Although the governor of the US military forces, Murray D. van Wagoner,
suggested rebuilding the city at another location, the men and women
of Würzburg wanted to rebuild their city in its original place.
His intention of making the city a museum featuring its ruins as
"the destruction of war" ended on May 1, 1945 when the
mayor of Würzburg, Gustav Pinkenburg, called out to the citizens:
"Würzburg is not dead, Würzburg must live, Würzburg
must be erected again!"
Women
called Trümmerfrauen (women of ruins) started to clean up their
cities. The intense physical labor of cleaning up and rebuilding
kept people too busy to think about too much beyond their immediate
situation. Over two and a half million cubic meters of rubble were
loaded onto boats that floated down the Main River to clean the
broken pieces of the ruined city. However, once the excitement of
rebuilding settled down, a new reality settled in.
Even
as many cities in Germany commemorate the 60th anniversary
of the end of WWII this year, the government and people still struggle
with how to respond to their nation’s own past. Ever fearful of
its past reputation and wanting to shed the stigma of its recent
history, the path of political correct politics has led to a new
internal economic and financial struggle with its highly developed
welfare state.
As
much as Germany has rebuilt and pulled herself out of the ashes,
there is still a cloud of guilt and shame lurking in the consciousness
of the population. Nobody has yet to come forth and absolve Germany
of her sins of WWII, least of all the Germans people themselves.
In
AD 680 a foreign bishop traveled from Ireland to Würzburg and
converted her leaders to an ancient faith that re-introduced moral
codes and civil conduct. Their message spread and took root in the
land and the lives of people who nurtured a flourishing culture
of learning the arts of science, poetry, art and music. The three
artist on the fountain attest to that. Germany possessed a muse
and a deep faith. It gave them Goethe and Schiller who were lovers
of liberty.
Until
Germans decide within themselves to reconnect with their own roots,
which they have slowly discarded since the mid 19th Century
by embracing socialism as their new religion, a real change cannot
occur with new momentum. It is not government, nor is it legal strategies,
that can bring Germany out of her self-imposed paralysis. It’s a
trust in her people and the individual responsibility that everyone
carries that has the capacity to dislodge the mistaken belief that
people need the power of the state for their livelihood.
March
17, 2005
Sabine
Barnhart [send her mail]
moved to the US in 1980 and lives in Fort Worth, TX with
her three children. For the past 15 years she has been working for
an international service company.
Copyright
© 2005 LewRockwell.com
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